What is BV-OSC Vitamin C?


Every skincare line on the planet touts a vitamin c serum no doubt, but not all vitamin c topicals are created equal.

BV-OSC* is a topical vitamin C that is oil soluble instead of the water soluble L-ascorbic acid that is so common in the skincare industry. Water soluble vitamin C has trouble getting through the skin's barrier function. With oil soluble vitamin C you get enhanced penetration deeper into the layers of the skin. Because of this deeper penetration you don't need as high of a percentage of the vitamin C. For example 10% BV-OSC compares to 20-30% of L-ascorbic acid.

Here are few other great benefits to this type of vitamin C.

  • Oil soluble vitamin C lasts longer on the skin

  • It makes for a more stable product in most cases with increased shelf-life because of a high anti-oxidant quality.

  • It's usually less irritating and better tolerated by sensitive skin than L-ascorbic acid.

  • It is a direct stimulant to new collagen and promotes up to 50 % more collagen production than water soluble vitamin c.

Some more results you can expect from regular use of these products are clearer, brighter, more even-toned complexion. Stronger, more resilient skin. Better barrier function in the skin. Reduction or elimination of deep-seated pigmentation problems. This includes pigmentation due to sun damage! And since it's a vitamin C ester and not an acid, it's not irritating or drying. In other words you need this in your skincare routine!

The use of any Vitamin C should also be done in alternating stages to give the skin a rest. For example use regularly for several weeks then take several weeks off. Vitamin C is a receptor driven metabolite and the more you use it your skin can begin to ignore it, or store it up and not use it. The rule of thumb is that if your skin responds very well, reduce frequency of application. This seems counter intuitive I know.

The skin spends a lot of energy hauling off waste product and anything it cannot metabolize, becomes waste. This is doubly true for vitamin c - it has receptors in the skin and these receptors simply disappear when too much is applied or it is applied too frequently.

Are you still with me? I'm trying hard not to totally nerd-out explaining this particular ingredient!


The best example we have at Skin Essentials are 302 C-Boost (7.5% BV-OSC Vitamin C) and 302 Lightening Drops (15% BV-OSC Vitamin C). 302's vitamin c products are very potent, so they aren't needed daily. Three times a week is plenty to give you excellent results and when you start to see good results don't forget to give your skin a break from it every so often. (This is true of other "actives" such as Vitamin A.)

*BV-OSC is actually a trade name for this particular type of topical vitamin C. The ingredient label may list it as Tetrahexldecyl Ascorbate.


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